Céret, Catalan Jewel of the Pyrénées-Orientales

The Catalan Eden: The New Provence of the Pyrénées-Orientales

Nestled in the heart of Vallespir, Céret captivates with its authenticity, its turbulent history, its vibrant artistic scene, and its generous Catalan gastronomy. This village, both picturesque and lively, invites discovery in all its facets.

History: Between Kingdoms and Borders

The earliest traces of Céret date back to the 9th century, during the Carolingian era, when the town belonged to the County of Roussillon. It quickly developed around its church and its seigneurial castle, the Castellas. Over the centuries, Céret evolved under the rule of the Counts of Empúries, then came under the authority of the Kingdom of Majorca in the 13th century. It was during this time that the ramparts, the famous Fountain of the Nine Jets (1313), and the renowned Devil’s Bridge, a medieval masterpiece, were built.

The town has weathered the upheavals of history: it became Spanish following the union of the kingdoms of Castile and Aragon, then French after the Treaty of the Pyrenees (1659). Symbolic of this shift, the lion’s head on the Fountain of the Nine Jets, originally facing Spain, was then turned towards France, accompanied by the inscription “Venite Ceretens, leo factus est gallus” (“Come, people of Céret, the lion has become a rooster”).

Through the centuries, Céret has endured epidemics, wars, and revolutionary upheavals, yet it has preserved its Catalan identity and dynamism, still evident today in its narrow streets and shaded squares.

Céret, Capital of the Arts

At the beginning of the 20th century, Céret became a major artistic hub, nicknamed “the Mecca of Cubism.” From 1911, Picasso and Braque stayed there, drawn by the village’s light and atmosphere. They were followed by many artists from the School of Paris: Juan Gris, André Masson, Marc Chagall, Soutine, Krémègne, Jean Dubuffet, Georges Braque, and many others. The Céret Museum of Modern Art, founded in 1950, today preserves and exhibits an exceptional collection of these masters, as well as contemporary works.

The war memorial in Céret, created by Aristide Maillol, a sculptor native to the region, also attests to the village’s artistic sensibility. The streets of Céret, its galleries, studios, and murals perpetuate this creative tradition, making the town a pilgrimage site for art lovers.

Gastronomy: Catalan Flavors and Warmth

Céret is also renowned for its gastronomy, reflecting the richness of the Catalan terroir. The village’s restaurants celebrate local specialties: cargolade (grilled snails), boles de picolat (meatballs in sauce), escudella i carn d’olla (Catalan stew), calçots (grilled sweet onions), and the famous crema catalana for dessert. Local products—fruits, vegetables, meats, and cheeses—are showcased in establishments where tradition meets creativity.

Among the best addresses are:

• Al Català: authentic and generous Catalan cuisine
• Le Pied dans le Plat: traditional dishes on the Place des Neuf Jets
• La Galerie: refined cuisine based on local products
• Can Jordi: friendly atmosphere and Mediterranean specialties
• Restaurant Guy Molas: homemade cuisine and breathtaking views of the valley
• Céret’s lively, colorful markets are also an opportunity to taste the village’s iconic cherries, famous throughout France.

Céret is thus a journey through time, an artistic immersion, and an invitation to indulge. A village where every stone, every painting, and every dish tells a chapter of Catalan history.